photo finish Friday.

I know that a few of you out there are fellow furniture painters.  Some of you might just take your pieces to a shop to sell them, but I’m betting that many of you need to take good photos of your pieces to sell them online too.  Possibly you share photos of your furniture on Facebook.  Or maybe you’re a blogger, or thinking about starting a blog, in which case you really do need to have great photos.

I’m hoping that whether you take your photos with a smartphone, iPad, click and shoot or a more expensive DSLR, you’ll get some info out of this post that you can put to use.  I’m planning to stick with tips that you can use without having to purchase software or buy new equipment of any kind.

Today’s post focuses (pardon the pun) on one of the most important pieces of the photography puzzle and that is composition.  That are lots of things to consider when it comes to composition, so let’s just briefly touch on the ones that can be directly applied to furniture photos.

Rule of thirds.

Many of you probably already know about the rule of thirds because it’s one of the basic rules of good photography of any kind.  Many cameras even have an option for including a grid in your view screen that will help you instantly see if you are following this rule.  It might look like this …

The basic idea is that you will create a more dynamic photo if rather than centering your subject, you place it on one of the lines of a grid separating your frame both vertically and horizontally into thirds.

You might be wondering how you can accomplish that with a close up furniture shot where the piece fills the frame.  The trick is to pay attention to what the subject of your photo really is.  For example, in this next shot the subject of my photo is the drawer pull itself, not the entire piece.

But even with photos from further out showing the entire piece of furniture you can use props on one side of the piece to balance a photo where your furniture isn’t centered in the frame.

Sometimes it still makes sense to center your piece in the frame though, if so then try to use some of these next tricks to improve your composition.

Symmetry.

As I was looking back through my blog posts for a good example of symmetry, I realized it’s something I rarely use.  To achieve symmetry you want to center your subject and then have each side of the frame somewhat mirror each other, or at least be visually balanced.  This symmetry in this next photo comes from the cabinets that are behind the piece and are equally balanced on each side.

Triangles and diagonal lines.

Making a visual triangle with your props is another great way to add dynamic tension to your photos.

Diagonal lines work well for this also.

OK, technically that’s not a piece of furniture, but you get the idea.

Rule of odds.

This is a simple rule to follow when adding multiple props to your photos.  For some reason odd numbers of items always look better than even numbers.  For example, five paint brushes, three books, etc.

This works when styling shelves in your home as well, try grouping things in odd numbers.

Filling the frame.

This is the idea that you should fill your entire frame with the subject of your photo, even to the point where you can’t see the entire thing.  Filling the frame adds instant impact to your photo.

There are three ways to accomplish this; 1) use a zoom lens to zoom in on your subject, 2) just get close with your camera or 3) crop your photo in post-production.

Foreground interest.

This is something that I wish I would remember to do more often.  One of the furniture artists I admire most does this all the time and it looks amazing (Marthe Leone).  Basically the idea is to have something in the foreground of your photos to help add some depth to your photo and make it look less two-dimensional.

This can be challenging if you don’t have a lot of space where you take your photos, but if you have the room give it a try!

Point of view.

Point of view refers to the position your camera is in when taking a photo and it’s an important thing to pay attention to.  Are you looking up at your piece?  Down at your piece?  Are you taking the photo from an angle or from straight on?

I find that a lot of people tend to take furniture photos from a standing position, and thus are really shooting down on their subject.  While shooting down can be flattering for people (because it makes things look smaller), and it can add some artistic flare to one or two photos in a blog post (like the one above), it tends to throw off the scale of the piece.  Especially if you’re taking a photo for an ad.

Instead try taking your photos straight on at eye level with the piece.  I use a little kid size chair to sit on when I’m taking the majority of my furniture photos (just because it’s easier than spending a lot of time on my knees).  Always include at least one or two photos taken at eye level when posting an ad for selling your pieces.

As you’re taking the photo, pay attention to your lines.  The horizontal and vertical lines of the piece of furniture should all be straight and even like in the photo above.

I hope some of my tips for composing photos specifically for furniture have been helpful.  If you’re interested in seeing more posts with photography tips for furniture painters or if there is a particular subject you’d like me to address, be sure to let me know with a comment.  If you guys are interested, I’ll definitely do some more photo finish Friday posts!

the pickle chair.

Recently I shared the pair of chairs with the stamped fabric seats that I purchased on the day of chairs …

I also bought two little kid sized chairs that day, see them there on the left?

Here they are again …

At the time I stashed many of these smaller projects away for the winter so I would have things that were easy to work on inside the house.

I painted the first little chair back in November in a pretty Homestead House milk paint color called Maritime.

I just finished up the second one, and this time I chose Sweet Pickins’ milk paint in a color called In A Pickle.

I’ve had such luck with green pieces lately so I figured I’d try it in milk paint.  I’ve painted a few pieces in this color in the past and the little bit of paint powder left in the bag was just enough for this chair.

Just look at the gorgeous chippy-ness …

I opted to just leave this chair unadorned, so no stencils or transfers.

It’s perfect for providing a pop of vibrant color.

The milk paint has been top coated with hemp oil, which really brings out that rich color.  Here is how it looked before the hemp oil was added.

The little bowl with the strawberries on it is something I picked up at a garage sale many years ago.  It’s just one of those sweet little things that I couldn’t resist.

I’m sure at one time it had a lid, but now it’s lidless.  I store paper clips in it.  It never fails to bring a smile to my face when I see it.  I love the little lines of green around the base and handles.

I’ve hung the chair on the wall for the photos, I think it would be fun to use a chair like this as an alternative to a traditional shelf, don’t you?

I’m slowly but surely making my way through all of the smaller projects that I had stashed away for the winter.  Luckily spring is just around the corner (shhh, don’t tell me differently, this is what I keep telling myself) and along with spring comes garage sale season!  It can’t get here soon enough.

 

 

the boutique de vin dresser.

I sent Mr. Q off to pick up this lovely dresser one afternoon last week.  It wasn’t far away so it was easy for him to pop over and buy it while I was still at work at the day job (well, technically I was getting my hair cut on my lunch hour at the time, hi Tamara!).

It has a rather classic traditional style, wouldn’t you say?

You can barely see them, but it has a pair of hankie drawers attached to the top.  I’m not a fan of the hankie drawer.  I’ve removed them from many dressers over the years.  Having those two boxes permanently adhered at either end of the top makes it difficult to put anything else on top of this piece, like a TV for instance.  And in the case of this dresser, I think it could easily be used as a buffet in the dining room, but not with hankie drawers. Usually there are a couple of screws holding the drawers in place, and that was the case with this dresser too.  So, I unscrewed the screws, removed the boxes, filled the holes with Dixie Belle’s brown mud and you’d never know they were once there.

Other than the finish being a bit worn, and the holes left by those hankie drawers, this piece was in perfect condition.  I paid a little bit more for it that I normally would, but not having to make repairs meant that I could restyle this one quickly.

To prep the dresser for painting I sanded it lightly and cleaned it with TSP substitute.  Then I pulled out my Fusion paint in a color called Little Lamb.  In the jar Little Lamb looks like a nice medium grey.  What I forgot about Little Lamb is that once painted and dry it has a purplish undertone.  In some lighting (such as mine) it almost looks lavender.  It’s a pretty color, but not what I wanted for this piece.  Here is how it looked on a bookcase I painted last year.

But no worries.  I just pulled out another jar of Fusion paint in Putty and was able to get away with just one coat of Putty over the Little Lamb, so I really didn’t waste any time or paint.  I would have needed two coats of the Putty had I not already had that coat of Little Lamb in place.  In fact, sometimes I even do this on purpose when transitioning a piece from a very dark original finish to a pale paint color.  Start with a first coat in a medium shade and then move to a paler color.

Once painted, I hand sanded with 220 grit sandpaper to distress and bring out some of the details on this piece.

Remember, Fusion paint can be more difficult to distress than milk or chalk paints because it has a built in top coat and once cured it is incredibly durable.  So if you’re going to distress Fusion I recommend either distressing right away as soon as the paint is dry to the touch (which is what I did here), or using some beeswax or hemp oil under your paint to create a resist in the areas you want to distress.

After I distressed this dresser I stood back and took a look. It was pretty, but it wasn’t very exciting.  The next decision was whether to add some more detail that would really make it pop, or leave it more neutral to appeal to a wider range of potential buyers.  I always struggle with this decision.

After all, we all need multiple pieces in our homes and they can’t all be showstoppers.  Sometimes we just need a piece that is pretty, but doesn’t steal all of the attention.  Sometimes buyers are looking for a piece that they can work into their existing decor, not a piece that will require redecorating the entire room.

But there was something about the top row of drawers on this dresser that was just bugging me.

See it now?  Why such a big gap in between the drawers, with the drawers flush up against the outside edges?  It just feels weirdly off balance to me.  Those two top drawers should be more centered.  I felt the need to correct that visually if not literally.

I thought one possible solution would be to add some sort of decorative detail to just that wide middle space.  Maybe a small IOD rub on transfer, a stencil, or even an IOD decor stamp.

But as I was digging through my IOD transfers I came across this one.

At 36.25″ x 25″ it was the perfect size to fill the entire front of this dresser.  And the detail of the rub-on would do a good job of drawing your attention away from the odd placement of those upper drawers.

Unfortunately I had a little trouble with the transfer.  When I tried to pull the backing paper off, parts of the transfer stuck to it.  No matter how I tried, I couldn’t get those bits of the transfer to detach from the backing.  And one of the bits in question was the face of one of the lions.  I really couldn’t apply the transfer with one faceless lion.

So I contemplated my options and decided to just remove the lions completely.  I cut away those sections of the transfer and kept going.

As it turned out, I think I might prefer this transfer without the lions.  Maybe lions just aren’t my thing.

I reached out to my contact at Prima Marketing and asked if there was a solution to this problem (aside from cutting away portions of the transfer) that I should try next time.  And yes, there is!  If this happens to you try popping the entire thing intact into the freezer for a little bit.  That should solve the problem.  But I also learned that there were some issues with this in previous shipments of the transfers, but they have made some changes to correct for it.  The transfers going out now shouldn’t do this (I purchased my transfer over six months ago).   So if you tried an IOD transfer a while back and ran into problems with the transfer sticking to the backing paper and decided they weren’t for you, give them another try.  I’ve done quite a few pieces with them (I counted, I’ve done 17 pieces with IOD transfers!) and normally I don’t have any issues.  Although, spoiler alert, I have learned not to wax before applying an IOD transfer (you can wax after).  But that’s a post for another day.  For now, just trust me on that one.

In addition, if you do have a transfer that fails, go back to your retailer and ask them to replace it.  Prima Marketing will send the retailer a replacement for you.

Did you notice my new lamp shade from Light Reading?  I mentioned a couple of weeks ago that I was in the market for another of their gorgeous lampshades and I did find one at Piccadilly Prairie in Southdale Center.  It looks amazing on the very Grecian looking lamp that I purchased at a garage sale.

I’m so glad I switched to the Putty for this dresser.  I love it in this pale shade.  Wouldn’t this piece make a lovely sideboard in a dining room?

As usual, this piece is for sale locally.  Check out my ‘available for local sale‘ page for more details on this piece or other pieces I currently have listed.

 

 

a pair of french chairs.

Before I get into today’s post, I have to mention … Fusion’s Park Bench green on mid-century pieces seems to be a magical combination.  The dresser I posted on Wednesday is already sold.  Once again, less than 48 hours from posting on Craigslist to being sold.  I’m going to have to start painting everything green!  How boring would that get for you guys?

Well, not to worry, today’s pieces aren’t green, and in fact they aren’t even painted … yet.

Do you guys remember the day for chairs last September?  I ended up bringing home 8 chairs from a neighborhood garage sale.

I love the carved detail and the pretty curvy legs on this trio of chairs.

Shortly after bringing them home I decided to save two of the chairs to deal with later, but paint the third chair for my guest room.

I used Miss Mustard Seed’s Apron Strings milk paint and the milk paint did its fabulously chippy thing.

My plan all along was to paint and reupholster the remaining pair, using the Iron Orchid Designs Decor Stamps on some basic muslin fabric for the upholstery.

Here’s the Decor Stamps how-to.

Step no. 1 – pull out your fabric, ink and stamps and do some test runs to be sure that the ink you are using will work well on fabric, and that you like the color combo.

Not all stamp inks are appropriate for use on fabric, so it’s always a good idea to test your ink first (or read this great article comparing various ink brands for use on fabric).  It’s also a good idea to see exactly how your ink color will look on your fabric before committing fully as well.  I was totally expecting that I would use the Sepia colored ink for this project, but after trying both that and the Watering Can I realized that I much preferred the latter.

Also, I have to note here that I like to use ink rather than paint for any stamping project (whether it’s on fabric, wood or paper).  Paint can be sloppy and harder to control than ink.  I get a much crisper image with ink.  That might just be my personal experience, but if you’re going to use paint be sure to fully test it on some scrap material first and make sure you like how it looks.

Step no. 2 – lay out your stamped design on the chair seats, making sure it fits properly.

I used stamps from two different sets of IOD Decor Stamps; the letters and no 2 are from the Alpha II set and the wreath and the crown are from the Grain Wreath set (by the way, the smaller wreath and rooster I used for my test are also from the Grain Wreath set).

Be sure that you have placed the pieces stamp side down with the smooth flat side up.  If you have any letters or numbers in your design you should be able to read them as shown in my photo above.

Once your design is laid out just place your IOD 10″ x 12″ acrylic stamp block over them and press down lightly.  It picks up the stamps almost like a magnet.  That smooth side of the rubber stamp will easily cling to the acrylic block.  At this point you could still change the placement of any of the stamps if you want to by pulling the individual stamp off and re-positioning it.

Now it’s time to ink up your stamp by pressing it into the stamp pad making sure it is evenly covered with ink  (hold it up to the light and you can easily see if it’s well inked).  Place your fabric on a flat, hard surface.  The surface under your fabric is going to determine how well your stamp works so make sure it is flat and doesn’t have any concave spots.  Place your stamp where you want it on your fabric (I tried to keep mine centered on a piece of fabric that was about 3″ bigger than my seat all the way around).  Then press firmly on the block over all of your design trying not to rock the stamp, just press straight down.  Use your hand to press down on the acrylic block above anywhere there is a stamp.

Step no. 3 – place the fabric over the chair seat, centering the design appropriately.  Staple your fabric in place, and voila! you are done.

Once I had the seat reupholstered I decided to just pop it on the as-yet-unpainted chair quick to see how it looked.  That’s when something really unexpected happened.  I kind of liked it as is.

I totally did not see that coming.  The finish is worn away in some spots and I think that is part of what I like about it.

So now I have to make a decision.  Do I leave these chairs unpainted?  In which case I would clean them up and maybe add a coat of hemp oil or wax for some added protection.

Or do I paint them?  Most likely in a chippy look using milk paint in white, or maybe pale grey (check out my pinterest board full of chippy chairs for inspiration)?

Any thoughts?  What would you do?  Let me know with a comment.

And in the meantime, be sure to pin this post for future reference!

here’s a hint, it’s not quite mint.

After painting the tall mid-century modern piece in a neutral dark grey last week, I promised myself that I would go for a more daring color on its companion piece.

I have to confess, I almost backed out of that promise when I saw how amazing the taller piece looked in the dark grey.

But I stuck to my guns and went for a brighter color on the low piece.

Can you guess what color I went with?  And no, it’s not mint!

But it is green.

Yep, I just had to choose Fusion’s Park Bench.  It worked so beautifully on the last mid-century piece I painted and that piece sold in just over 24 hours, so I decided to see if I could repeat that experience.

The prep work on this piece was exactly the same as for the taller one.  I had to re-position the drawers so that they were inset once again, but other than that it was ready to paint thanks to the sanding and repair work that the previous owner had already done.

I really love painting a large piece like this with the Fusion paint mainly because it cuts out one major step in the makeover process, having to add a top coat.  Fusion paint has a built in top coat.  After curing for about 3 weeks or so, this paint is fully washable and water resistant as is.  You’ll often see people adding a top coat, and you can add one if you want to, but you don’t need one for durability.

I love this gorgeous shade of green!

On the taller dark grey dresser I used Prima Marketing’s Metallique wax in Bronze Age on the knobs, but for this piece I wanted to go with a brighter gold so I went with their Vintage Gold Metallique wax.

 

Now it just remains to be seen if this green appeals to a buyer too.  Fingers crossed.

If you are local and would like more details, be sure to check out my ‘available for local sale‘ page.

blondes have more fun.

As I was working on two mid-century pieces recently, I was thinking about how many blonde dressers I’ve done in the past.

I took the time to look back and realized I’ve done more than I thought.

My very first mid-mod blonde was a dresser that my friend Cathy gave me.  This was waaaay back, before I had a blog and before I realized that these pieces from the 60’s were coming back in style.  At the time I was just trying to make this piece more palatable somehow.

It was also before I realized that bright reflecting sunlight maybe wasn’t the greatest lighting choice for furniture photos.  And back when I was painting with plain ol’ latex paint and doing things like spraying the hardware white.

The blonde bombshell came along a bit later.  It’s painted in Annie Sloan’s Provence.

It had the most awesome drawer pulls.  They look like something that came off an airplane.

I think the vintage moxie pieces were my favorite blonde pieces to work on.

I painted them in Sherwin Williams’ Aloe (6464), which was the 2013 color of the year from their Vintage Moxie collection.  Seriously!  Vintage Moxie!  I had to use that name.

Aren’t those circular drawer pulls to die for?

On many of these mid-century pieces, the hardware is what makes the piece.

This mid-century nightstand is the first one I used vintage wallpaper on.

This was a case where I didn’t have the original mid-century hardware, so I gave it more of a vintage makeover with the wallpaper drawer fronts and the old milk glass knobs.

In March of 2015 I worked on another cute little blonde nightstand, this one made by Dixie.

It’s painted in Fusion’s Champlain and Laurentien, and I used the same vintage wallpaper inside the cubby hole area.  The flecks of gold in the wallpaper tie perfectly with the gold knobs.

Fast forward to September 2016.  Another friend gave me a blonde mid-century piece and surprise, surprise, I decided to paint it mint green.

The mid mod mint is painted in Dixie Belle’s Mint Julep with Annie Sloan’s Old White in the center.

Once again the piece has some distinctive mid-century drawer pulls.

Boy, it wasn’t until I saw all of these pieces in one place that I noticed how much I love painting the blondes with aqua/mint and white.

I’m glad I stepped out of that comfort zone when I painted my latest mid-century blondes.

You’ve seen the one painted in Dixie Belle’s Gravel Road, but you’ll just have to come back on Wednesday to see what color I chose for the 2nd one.  Here’s a hint, it’s not mint.

what took you so long?

I don’t normally post on a Sunday, but this morning I wanted to thank you for your support after my post on Friday regarding Tom & Naomi’s fire.  Every comment and/or donation was greatly appreciated.  The ash has settled and Tom & Naomi are considering their options on how to proceed from here.  I’ll be sure to keep you all posted as their plans progress.

Also, I wanted to let you know that Mr. Q’s grandpa Bud passed away early this morning.  You might expect us to be a house in mourning, but that isn’t the case.  Bud had an amazing long and full life.  He was always telling stories about his experiences such as helping his dad run bootleg liquor down from Canada during prohibition. He also told many tales about serving in WWII as an interpreter.  Having been around for over 100 years, Bud had seen a lot.  Can you imagine having been born at a time when only 35% of homes had a telephone and then living to see that come full circle to cell phones that can be taken with you everywhere eliminating the need for a home phone?

Recently though Bud was basically just patiently waiting to join his wife who passed away two years ago.  When someone asked him what he thought she would say when he joined her in heaven, his answer was ‘what took you so long?

So rather than being sad, we are celebrating the fact that Bud has gotten his wish to join his wife and that after two years apart they are finally back together again now and can both rest in peace.

highs and lows.

The radio station that I regularly listen to used to have listeners call in on Monday mornings with their ‘high’ and their ‘low’ from the weekend.  It was amusing to hear what kinds of things people called in with.  But it also made you think about life and how it really is all about the highs and the lows, and how often they happen in the same week.

But this week the balance got a little out of whack around here.

High:

Mr. Q’s bff (I’m pretty sure they don’t call each other bff’s, but I can, right?) came to visit from New York to help him celebrate his birthday.

Low:

Mr. Q’s 100 year old grandpa’s health has been steadily declining and this week they officially put him on hospice care.  Grandpa Bud has been ready to go for a while now.  He hasn’t had much quality of life for the last couple of years.  Mr. Q has breakfast and lunch with him every day, which is an awesome thing and I know Bud enjoys seeing him, but nonetheless Bud has made it clear that he is tired and ready to be done with this thing we call life.  He says that no one should live to be 100.  So although it’s hard to see Bud declining, it is not unexpected and it will ultimately be a blessing when Bud goes.

And another low:

And then while my mother-in-law was in town to attend a meeting about her dad going on hospice care, her husband’s incredibly amazing workshop burned down.

You might remember when I blogged about Tom’s fabulous workshop about two years ago.

When Tom & Naomi moved back to this area from New Orleans several years ago they bought a fixer upper property.  Their plan was to fix it up over time doing all of the work themselves.  They live on a very modest fixed income, so they have to space the work out over time as they can afford the supplies.  It’s absolutely nothing like an episode of Fixer Upper where the work is done by a team of people in the space of a month or two.

Their initial priority was to build a workshop for Tom to work in.  He is an amazing woodworker.  I showed you the trim he made for the front of their house …

But before he got to that trim, Tom spent several years getting his workshop up and running.  He’s been continuing to work on it while also working on the house.  The upstairs of the workshop was nearing completion.  Naomi had just called me last week to ask if I would help them stencil the ceiling (which I thought would make an awesome future blog post).

They heated the workshop with a giant wood burning stove.

They thought it was safe.

They were wrong.

Although there is no official word on the cause of the fire, it’s likely that it was a spark from the wood burning stove.

Not only did Tom lose his workshop, but he lost everything in it.

His tools and supplies, his books, his photos of past projects.

What used to look like this …

Now looks this …

But worse yet, he also lost some of his most precious things like this amazing miniature train chapel car that he built many years ago for Naomi.

Which now looks like this …

Remember the tiny boats that he carved …

Gone.

Yes, these are just things.  And no one was hurt, which is absolutely the most important thing here.  We haven’t lost sight of that and we feel totally fortunate that this wasn’t so much worse.

But I know many of you are fellow artisans and can probably understand the loss that we are all feeling, most especially Tom.  Many of the pieces in that workshop were ones that he put his heart and soul into crafting by hand.

My sister-in-law Heather has set up a Go Fund Me page for Tom & Naomi.

So today I am doing something I’ve never done before (and hopefully won’t ever have to again).  I’m asking you to consider showing your support for my blog with something more than just a comment.  Even if all you have to give is $10 or $20, if even just 100 of you can give a small amount … well, you can do the math.  It will add up.

It will also go a long way towards helping Tom & Naomi rebuild.  Although they are insured, the insurance is never going to pay out enough to replace all of the equipment that was in the shop, and certainly never enough to replace the handmade details that made the workshop what it was.

So thank you from the bottom of my heart if you are able to help.  And even if you can’t help with a donation, just knowing that people care would be a big boost to Tom & Naomi’s morale, so please leave a comment that I can share with them.

painted books.

It’s been a while since I’ve painted some books.  Unless you’ve followed me from the beginning, or gone back and read to the beginning, you probably haven’t seen my painted books.

The first batch I painted were all done in Miss Mustard Seed milk paint in Typewriter, then stenciled in a pale grey acrylic craft paint and finished with some hemp oil.

Then I branched out and added some grey books (painted in Miss Mustard Seed’s Trophy)…

and some pale minty green books.

For a while now I’ve been thinking it would be nice to have some white painted books.

So I pulled out some old hardcover books (find them at your local thrift store for as little as .15 ea when they are having a sale) and started by painting the covers with Dixie Belle’s Drop Cloth and sealing them with The Real Milk Paint Co’s Dead Flat.

Then I pulled out a bunch of my stencils.

Don’t worry about the stencils being larger than the books.  I think it just adds to the look to have the design running over the edges.

This is a great way to get a bunch of decorative books to fill up some shelves on a budget.  Displaying things en masse always has more impact.

It seems that the Drop Cloth goes particularly nicely with some old ironstone.

The painted books also make great props for furniture photo shoots.

If nothing else, it’s just a fun project for a cold winter day!

 

salvaging some mid mod style.

Unlike some lucky furniture painters, I don’t have a pole barn full of furniture waiting to be painted.  Although on occasion I’ve been known to have as many as 10 or so pieces out in the carriage house waiting for their moment in the sun, for the most part I don’t have room to store a lot of inventory.

I try to stock up a bit in the fall because typically by now there are slim pickings on Craigslist.  In February people in Minnesota are hibernating, they aren’t cleaning out the attic or getting ready to move.  Plus in the winter I’m obviously not finding pieces at garage sales either.

But I’ve pretty much worked through most of what I had stocked up and now I’m scouring Craigslist on a regular basis looking for candidates for a makeover and not finding a whole lot.  The occasional piece that attracts my eye ends up either too far away, too expensive, or else it has already sold to someone else but the ad wasn’t deleted yet.

When I initially came across the ad for this pair of mid-century dressers I gave them a pass.  I didn’t hate them, but I didn’t love them either.  I do enjoy working on the occasional mid-century piece, but I usually prefer older stuff.

But week after week I kept seeing this ad.  I suspect they weren’t selling because the seller wasn’t ‘working his ad’ very aggressively.  By that I mean that he wasn’t renewing the ad periodically to keep it towards the top of the list.  Over a month had gone by since the ad was originally posted and he’d never renewed it once.

Or perhaps the problem was that no one could see the potential in these pieces.

The price was certainly right, and after seeing the ad pass by a couple of times I stopped to take a closer look.  You know what I saw?  I saw two pieces where someone else had already done half of the work for me.  They’d already been sanded and were pretty much ready to paint (and when Mr. Q and I picked them up the seller told me that he’d also already replaced all of the runners inside).  So I realized that these two pieces could be a pretty quick turnaround.

Unfortunately, in addition to the sanding and repairing, the seller had also replaced the original knobs with these awful cheap knobs from the hardware store that are all wrong and have zero mid-century style.

But imagine my glee when I opened one of the drawers and found a Ziploc baggie filled with the original knobs inside.  Jackpot!

If you are thinking they look a bit grungy in that photo, just sit tight.  You’ll see what I did to spruce them up in a few minutes.

As we got talking with him, the seller happened to mention that he’d also made a couple of … well … let’s call them adjustments to the style of the pieces.  He said that originally the drawers with the long handles has been inset.  He thought that looked weird, so he added stops inside the dresser to keep the drawers from pushing all the way back.  Plus he moved the shims on either side of those drawers forward to bring all of the drawers flush with the front.

Now that you are aware of this, go back and look at the ‘before’ picture again.  Yep, now your eye immediately goes to those shims and you realize they look kind of odd, right?

I realized that I had to un-do those changes before I could start painting.  So much for the quick turn around.  But that being said, thank goodness the seller mentioned this.  I’m honestly not sure that I would have figured this out on my own.  I know I would have been puzzled about those shims, but would I have realized that two of the four drawers were meant to be inset?  Probably not.

I tried to remove the shims intact so that I could just simply move them back to their original location, but I ended up breaking two of them.  That’s when I called my handyman Ken for a consultation.  He came over and helped me get the rest of the shims off without breaking them (they were glued and stapled with heavy duty staples), and he took the broken ones home and cut replacements for me.  What would I do without Ken?

While Ken was working on that I had to take care of one last problem before I could start painting.

It wasn’t until I was wiping the drawers down to paint them that I noticed there was a hole on either side of the long wooden drawer pulls.  I’m guessing that there used to be a metal cap of sorts on either end of that pull.  I wish I’d found those inside a drawer in a Ziploc baggie, but no such luck.  So I needed to fill those holes.  I used my usual trick of placing a piece of tape on the back side of the hole, but then this time I filled them using Dixie Belle’s brown Mud.  It cracks me up that the label says ‘straight from the swamps of Dixie’.

Fortunately it does not smell like it’s straight from the swamps of Dixie 😉

I used a putty knife to press the mud into the holes and then I let it dry.  Once the first pass was dry I went over the holes a second time with the mud to make sure they were level with the drawer front.  Once dry again, I sanded them smooth and cleaned the drawer fronts with a damp rag.

Now came the fun part, the paint!  I always struggle with deciding between choosing a more neutral color that I think will sell more easily and choosing a more vibrant color that will be fun to paint with but may not appeal to as many buyers.  So I made a deal with myself to paint one piece in a neutral and one in a brighter color.  Today I’m starting with the taller piece, and it’s going more neutral.

Dixie Belle’s Gravel Road, to be precise, which is a warm, dark grey.  Once again I used Dixie Belle’s recommended method of painting.  I dipped my brush in water periodically to thin down the paint.  The paint goes on so smoothly using this technique.  It does also thin it down a fair bit, so two coats were required.  Also, in case you are wondering I used about half of the 16 oz jar for this dresser, so less than $10 worth of paint.

I use Dixie Belle’s Best Dang Wax! in brown as a top coat.  I like how the brown wax warms up and deepens the color a bit.

Before putting those original brass knobs back on, I washed them with soap and warm water and then once dry I added some Prima Marketing Metallique wax.  I debated using the Old Silver and although I think that would have looked gorgeous, I went with the warmer tone of the Bronze Age instead.

I like to apply it with a q-tip (although some people just use a fingertip).  The trick is to apply even coverage and then leave the knobs alone to ‘dry’ for a couple of hours.  Once dry you can buff lightly to add some shine.

They look amazing on the dresser.  It was so lucky that I was able to put the original knobs back on this piece.

I have to admit that I did not have high expectations for this dresser.  I really expected to improve it somewhat with a paint job and call it good.

But in the end, after salvaging a bit of the original mid-century modern style, I am amazed by the transformation.

How about you?