We woke up to a bright and chilly morning last Tuesday. The actual temp was 21, but the ‘feels like’ temp was 12! Twelve! In October! Yikes!
I don’t really remember when they switched out ‘wind chill’ for ‘feels like’, but I did a bit of googling and apparently the ‘feels like’ number takes humidity levels into consideration whereas the ‘wind chill’ did not.
Either way, ‘feels like 12’ is too cold for October. And as I’ve discovered, it’s also too cold for mums.

Dang! I probably should have covered them. But then, the soil is frozen rock hard. I’m not sure that covering would have helped.
It’s funny, when I planted all of my bulbs a couple of weeks ago I thought I was planting them way too early. But here we are in October with a hard freeze already. I guess my timing was pretty good after all. Likewise, I also pulled out all of my caladiums last weekend in preparation for saving them over the winter. Just in time I think.
I used quite a few caladiums in my planters this summer.

That tall white one above was one of my favorites, as was the pink and green one I planted along with some double impatiens …

Caladiums are another fantastic way to add colorful foliage to your garden. They will grow in full to partial shade and perform best with some dappled morning sunlight.
They are not fond of cold weather though. Caladiums are only hardy in zones 9 – 11. Here in my Minnesota zone 4 garden I have always treated them as an annual and just tossed them at the end of the season. But, you know what? Caladiums are kind of pricey. They are around twice the price of other annuals that I plant.

So this year I’ve decided to try saving the bulbs for next year.
The first step was to dig them all up, and gently shake off any loose soil. Do not rinse or wash off the dirt with water as this will make the bulbs more susceptible to rot.

Leave the foliage in place and allow the bulbs to ‘cure’ for a week or so (sound familiar, feels like we’re painting). I just left mine in the potting shed on vintage plates to dry.
Once they are ‘cured’, or dried out, the leaves should drop off or at least be easy to pull away from the bulb. Go ahead and remove all of the leaves.

At this point you should inspect your bulbs for any signs of damage or rot. Be sure to toss any that are damaged, moldy or soft. As they say, one bad apple (or in this case, caladium bulb) will spoil the bunch.

It seems like with the many caladiums I had, I should have a big pile of bulbs. But after weeding out the bad ones (maybe about 25% of them were bad), I ended up with just this one plate full.

Then again, if each one of these becomes one plant, I have plenty!
Next up comes packing these away for winter. The bulbs need to be kept dry, therefore the packing materials should allow them to breathe. A cardboard box or paper grocery bag should work. I’m choosing to nestle mine in a cardboard box filled with shredded paper.

I’ll put the box in the basement where they will stay cool, dry and out of sunlight.
The big trick for me will be remembering to pull them out again next spring. I plan to pot them up indoors 4 to 6 weeks before our average last frost date. With our short growing season here in Minnesota, it makes sense to give them a good head start before transplanting them out into my pots.

I’ve put a reminder on my calendar for the end of March.
Hopefully next summer I’ll have lots of beautiful caladiums and will have saved myself a few bucks by not having to buy them. Wish me luck on that!















































































































